Nonohana
Located in Towada-shi of Aomori Prefecture, Tohoku Region, Nonohana Yakemaso is the perfect place to make your base for a few nights if you want to explore the stunning natural surroundings of Oirase Gorge, Towada-ko and Hakkoda Mountains. It’s also in a great location to visit other public onsens especially the famed Sukayu Onsen. It is roughly an hour’s drive from Aomori City, and 30 mins from Towada City.
This ryokan is particularly known for the fact that it’s been made from the delightfully aromatic Aomori Hiba wood. Native to Aomori prefecture, Hiba is an ancient and slow growing cypress tree, which is naturally antiseptic, insect repelling and holds soothing aromas.
TIP: hire a car, so you can easily get around this mountain region.
A RESERVABLE PRIVATE ONSEN
There are 3 different onsen baths in Nanohana, and the prettiest one of all, the outdoor rotemburo is available for private reservation outside normal bathing hours for a fee. (I reserved it at 8pm). Otherwise it’s part of the usual onsen bath swap during the day.
Leading to this rock bath is the very pretty corridor below, whilst the other baths are indoor (also shown below). However since we visited during off peak season, I always pretty much had the baths to myself
NOTE: as you explore more unknown remote areas of Japan, be prepared for the fact that a private onsen may simply not be an option… and only public baths will be. Some of the most famous onsens in Japan are only public… so don’t let your fear of public bathing miss out on all these amazing places!
The onsen ryokan only has 22 rooms available. Meals are held in the dining hall where some Nebuta artwork hangs. We really enjoyed staying here, it was very homey and local, simple tatami rooms, delicious local produce. It was evocative to me of a very traditional ryokan, perhaps not as luxurious as some may want, but in essence so utterly local Japanese.
There’s a delightful quaint charm of staying in local, family run Ryokans. The attention to detail in their presentation of food and their knowledge of local delicacies is wonderful to learn.
BEGINNINGS OF THE KAISEKI
The quality of the food at Ryokans is equally important to us, and we were delighted with our traditional Japanese kaiseki meals at Nonohana that celebrated many of the local areas and regional cuisine.
How cute is our starting dish on our first night? Don’t you love the little swallow prawn with its yellow pumpkin plumage!?
AUTUMN COLORS ARRIVING
One of my favourite aspects of Kaiseki is its utter art form of presentation, influenced by the changing seasons in the environment.
MY PERSONAL THOUGHTS
FOOD
We were so pleased with the local cuisine used in our Kaiseki meals, some delightful local specialty dishes. However it was to be noted that we weren’t asked for any allergies or likes/dislikes, so actually one dish did have octopus (which I abhor, but hubby likes). Apparently it was a very good octopus so hubby was happy he was able to get a second serving! Breakfast was a very pleasant traditional affair, not overly sumptuous as some more luxurious ryokans can be, but a perfect amount to start a day exploring the local area, instead of rolling around rubbing our swollen bellies.
ONSEN
There are no private onsens available in the rooms, however their outdoor rotemburo bath can be reserved for private use which is a wonderful option. The rotemburo bath is very spacious, and a lovely experience to have to yourself. The other baths are traditional indoor wooden baths which are lovely but all public.
ROOM AMBIANCE
Traditional Japanese tatami rooms are always lovely, no complaints about this simple room to stay a couple nights. We chose one room status higher as we wished for a toilet inside the room. Be aware some ryokans may only have shared bathrooms (public baths) and toilets, especially famous older ones.
VENUE AMBIANCE
When you enter Nonohana, the aromatic smell of Aomori Hiba drifts into your senses, and its lovely. As we were mainly using the Ryokan to explore the surrounding area, we weren’t as interested in exploring the available facilities. However there’s a lovely sitting area in the main foyer for groups to sit down, have a drink, chat in their yukata, a little shop with local products and I believe the dining hall can also be reserved for karaoke with large groups!
SURROUNDING AREA
I can’t begin to tell you how utterly gorgeous the surrounding area is! Oirase Gorge, Towada-ko and Hakkkoda Mountains are just breathtaking… enough that they will have separate blog posts and I will tell you this, there are two other places in Japan I absolutely adore and simply fell in love with that I would consider moving… one is Kyoto and the other is this beautiful area. So if you ever have the chance, visit this stunning area in Aomori.
N0NOHANA YAKEMASO FACTS (at time of stay)
COST: starting from ~14,000JPY per person per night
MEALS INCLUDED: Breakfast & Dinner
CHECK IN/CHECK OUT TIME: 1500 / 1000
PAYMENT: cash & credit card accepted
ROOMS: 22 (all Japanese style rooms of various sizes)
ENGLISH SPEAKING STAFF: one gentleman does
WEBSITE: https://www.yakeyamaso.co.jp/
IG: n/a
