Haiya Ryokan
Along the sea of Japan lies Fukui prefecture where one can spend days relaxing in charming Awara onsen, easily accessible from Kanazawa City. So since I had the time, I decided to extend my travels and go explore this little onsen town where there are several onsen ryokans to choose from, and there was no lovelier choice than Haiya.
Arriving at Haiya Ryokan, one steps into their wide lobby with floor to ceiling high windows showcasing their stunning Japanese garden complete with stone bridge, and large koi pond weaving throughout the greenery. The onsen ryokan can trace it’s history back to 1884 when its ancestors originally produced the finest ash used for dying the costumes of Kabuki & Noh theatre actors hence the name “Haiya” which translates to “house of ash”
Currently Haiya is helmed by the yondaime (fourth generation family head) matriarch, it’s Okami - Makita-san.
Haiya Ryokan is spread across 4 buildings with 40 rooms in total to choose from;
Jyurakutou holds 17 rooms in their main building with the majority being a Japanese style, 1 with a bed, and 1 Japanese- Western style (barrier free)
Kangetsutei are the ryokan’s extremely spacious Garden Suite Japanese-Western Style rooms that were renovated in 2022, each of differing design and with views of the beautiful Japanese garden. 8 rooms are available, perfect for generations of family to enjoy a stay.
Shofuan is the original guesthouse annex since 1884 where each of the 15 rooms has it’s own traditional Japanese garden, 6 of these rooms having their own private open-air onsen bath to enjoy and the largest room holds a glorious private large koi pond
Though there are many areas of the onsen ryokan to explore and get lost down (they also have a large gift shop full of local products, and sweet souvenirs), my favourite has to be the Shofuan annex (in which I stayed), where I felt transported to an almost Studio Ghibli-esque world . There’s something magical about this annex, for you leave the modernity of the main lobby & the beautiful Japanese garden, to turn down a path & suddenly find yourself in a small maze of corridors with slightly low ceilings leading to private entrances to each room of the annex, whilst you pass mini stone gardens, small secretive doors & tsuboniwa gardens
It makes one feel like you’re Hayao Miyazaki’s Sen (Chihiro) from Spirited Away (Chihiro no Sento) leaving the modern world and entering a bygone era of Japan’s past. I will be honest I did get a little lost trying to return to my room after enjoying the public onsen, which I greatly enjoyed as I just discovered other little charming nooks and crannies.
KORIN 光輪 is the stunning room I stayed in, in the Shofuan Annex. Named by Prince Takamatsu, this beautiful Japanese traditional room features intricate craftsmanship by the sukiya shokunin (shrine carpenters). A spacious 12 tatami main room, a separate 4 tatami room along with it’s sitting area, Korin can sleep up to 6 people but is equally perfect for the solo traveller, couple, small family who want a bit more space.
Stunning, detailed sukiya architecture, beautiful shoji doors, high ceilings and tasteful Japanese antiques decorating the room show the beautiful history of the past, but of course perhaps my most favourite feature is the lovely private hinoki onsen bath set in my own private mossy-filled Japanese garden.
As I stayed during the week (I always prefer staying on weekdays as it’s always quieter & less guests so one has higher chance of enjoying the public onsen all to one’s self) , I was allowed to view some of the other rooms in the ryokan (I tend to ask for my own personal curiosity if I can see different styles of rooms to the one I stay in teehee).
The largest and most special room in the Shofuan Annex is KYOKUSUI 曲水 which features a western style bedroom, a 12.5 tatami Japanese room, a bathroom with a large goemon pottery bath and a wide glass enclosed sitting veranda where one can enjoy watching numerous colorful koi swim around a private koi pond which wraps around the room’s entire veranda to the bathroom. I truly haven’t seen a traditional room so old school opulent and with such a sweeping koi pond, it is magnificent!
In March 2022, the 8 rooms of the Kangetsutei building have all been beautifully renovated into these sumptuous, Western-Japanese style suites overlooking the picturesque Japanese garden. The suite room I had the opportunity to view was split into two spacious tatami rooms, one with twin western beds, and the other able to be used as a living/sitting area with futons available if more than two people stay. Both tatami rooms have sweet sitting areas, to relax, sip some tea, read a book or meander outside to one’s terrace verandah to enjoy the garden & the koi lazily swimmingly around.
TIP:
from Spring 2024, the Hokuriku shinkansen will extend to Awara Onsen Station, making it even easier to reach for weekend getaways from Tokyo, Osaka & Kyoto! currently one has to transfer from JR Kanazawa Station to a limited express train (~35mins) to reach Awara Onsen Station
MY PERSONAL THOUGHTS
FOOD
Though meals aren’t served in one’s rooms, the dining restaurant has private dining areas for each guest’s stay so you have complete privacy whilst enjoying your meals. As with all Kaiseki, the feast is a tribute to the region’s local seasonal produce & ingredients which showcase such freshness and attention to detail. Awara Onsen being in Fukui is right by the Sea of Japan and as a result has such a plethora of amazing seasonal seafood available for one to try.
ONSEN
I’m always happy when a ryokan has several public onsen to enjoy especially lovely rotenburo so one can bask in the hot spring waters yet feel the breeze sway against your skin. Awara Onsen derives it’s source from a weak salt spring, which is said to be good for various nervous system ailments, muscle and joint pain, and gastrointestinal diseases. Being so close to the sea, the slight presence of salt in the hot spring, is also said to have a beautiful skin effect for women.
Of course the star of the show for me is my own private hinoki open-air bath where I could wile away the time reading away, sipping tea and just recharging the soul.
ROOM AMBIANCE
Warm and inviting with rich tones of wood, the traditional sukiya rooms of the original Shofuan Annex are truly beautiful and wonderfully comfortable to spend the time relaxing in the room. Detailed woodwork, craftsmanship and Japanese antiques add lovely little touches. Having the view of your own rich, lush, mossy Japanese garden right by your window and private onsen gives another element of being totally separated from the outside world. I absolutely adored staying in this ryokan room.
VENUE AMBIANCE
Though the grounds are large & there are multiple buildings, one doesn’t feel overwhelmed. In fact, its a mini adventure exploring the paths, crevices and where they lead. Natural light fills the lobby, it’s high ceilings and showcases the gorgeous inner central Japanese garden and koi pond. Whilst walking down the path leading to the Shofuan annex is another world, dimly lit, mysterious, quiet, low ceilings and aspects of the past.
SURROUNDING AREA
Unfortunately due to time constraints I didn’t spend time wandering the onsen town itself, instead I focused purely on just enjoying my time at the ryokan.
HAIYA RYOKAN FACTS (at time of stay)
COST: starting from ~38500JPY per person per night (for a room with a private open air onsen)
MEALS INCLUDED: Breakfast & Dinner
CHECK IN/CHECK OUT TIME: 1500 / 1030
PAYMENT: Cash or Credit
ROOMS: 40 (15 rooms in the original annex with 6 of the rooms having private open air onsen)
ENGLISH SPEAKING STAFF: A few
WEBSITE: HAIYA