Though I have lived in Japan for over 15 years, it still took me over a decade to make my way to Nikko in Tochigi Prefecture… perhaps because it’s so easily accessible from Tokyo, and that it’s a rather popular spot for visitors, it was never too high on my wishlist to visit in Japan as I wanted to discover further flung destinations and as I knew it would always be there.

However one Christmas in Japan, we wanted a little staycation over the holidays and didn’t want to travel far, so finally made the decision to spend a few days over a couple nights in Nikko in Kinugawa Onsen. Nikko located in Tochigi Prefecture is fairly well loved as a popular day trip for tokyo-ites and overseas visitors to enjoy a spot of nature, hikes, onsen and culture, however as always we wanted a more leisurely time to explore and rest, so thought a short trip would be more fitting then a day trip.

As Nikko is so popular, I did find it quite difficult to find an onsen ryokan with rooms with private outdoor onsen (more on that later) within our usual budget. Just like Hakone, Nikko commands higher prices due to it’s location, popularity with locals and tourists (probably another reason why it took us a long time to visit).

Finally I settled on Tsuganoki, a charming small family run inn, on the banks of the Kinugawa river. Rooms were renovated in 2020 where 11 of their rooms now feature lovely open-air baths in a variety of designs, along with the comfort of Japanese-Western styles (ie Western beds) for some of the rooms.

Kinugawa Onsen’s waters are a simple alkaline spring, which is said to be efficient in healing sprains, muscle pain, sensitivity to cold, recovery from fatigue among many other ailments. One can enjoy the onsen waters in Tsuganoki’s public onsen, where one can soak away in the indoor or outdoor bath with views of the surrounding greenery.

Like any onsen ryokan,  your traditional Japanse kaiseki dinners are filled with local specialised ingredients is always showcased in one’s meals. Tsuganoki celebrates the regions famed yuba, Nasu Kogen Pork and their signature “soymilk hotpot”. Breakfast was also a pleasing affair perfect to start the day. Read below to see more on my thoughts.

MY PERSONAL THOUGHTS

FOOD

If you’re a lover of meat, then Tsuganoki’s generous portions of Nasu Kogen Pork will definitely be a treat! It was a little bit much for me, as I’m not the biggest meat eater, however hubby was happy. The second night was even more impressive, so much meat! As Kinugawa Onsen is not near the ocean, rather mountains and rivers, the cuisine reflects the local environment’s ingredients. So if you’re someone who loves perhaps more seafood in your meals, do choose onsen ryokans near the ocean.

ONSEN

I was a tad disappointed that my room’s private open air bath’s water was not sourced from the hot spring source, so that was a X against Tsuganoki; which is such a shame as if it had been onsen I would definitely be returning for a relaxing staycation. For when I book a room at an onsen ryokan with a private open air bath, I prefer it to be filled with onsen water. However of course the public onsen was lovely to spend some time soaking away in.

ROOM AMBIANCE

Japanese modern-wa aesthetics primarily feature in their rooms, so it’s a nice combination for those who want something traditional with western elements (ie. a bed). I did particularly like that one did have separate areas to sleep and read a book, relax, have snacks etc.

VENUE AMBIANCE

A tall building, the upper floors are the guestrooms, however on the ground floor, lobby area where you check in, there’s a lovely little souvenir shop, a little lounge to enjoy coffee with modern kissaten vibes. On the 2nd floor is a relaxation room for those who want to book beauty & massage appointments. Next to the relaxation room is a library lounge where one can peruse a variety of books, novels, manga etc.

SURROUNDING AREA

For those who wish a trip in a nature, easily accessible from Tokyo, Kinugawa Onsen offers a wonderful escape. Mere mins walk from Tsuganoki is the pedestrian Kinu Tateiwa suspension bridge, with stunning views of the river and its surroundings (especially in autumn). For those more adventurous, Kinugawa Line Kudari offers boat trips down the river, whilst Ryuokyo Gorge has some stunning landscapes and autumn foliage. Otherwise if you want to take it easy, just meander around and enjoy the free public onsen footbath outside Kinugawa Onsen Station.

TSUGANOKI FACTS (at time of stay)

• COST: rooms with private outdoor bath starting from ~20900JPY per person per night

• MEALS INCLUDED: Breakfast & Dinner

• CHECK IN/CHECK OUT TIME: 1500 / 1000

• PAYMENT: cash & credit card accepted

• ROOMS: 17 (11 with private outdoor bath - not onsen)

• ENGLISH SPEAKING STAFF: some do

• WEBSITE: https://tsuganoki.com/

• IG: @tsuganoki_oyado