Otherwise known as the “Soba & Waterfall Inn”, this sweet Taisho Roman style onsen ryokan sits nestled on top of the hills of Ginzan Onsen in Yamagata Prefecture, slightly hidden from view until one crosses over from the side of Shirogane Waterfalls.

There are two buildings to Takimikan - the main building which sits on top of the hills, and the annex Bettei Takimitate (which has beautiful Japanese-style rooms with wide traditional shoji windows) down the hill, right at the waterfall. 

We stayed in the main building, and it is utterly charming - I cannot tell you how pleased I was that I discovered this gem of a ryokan. The main public onsen baths are in the main building whilst I believe Bettei Takimitate has a reservable indoor private onsen.

One of the major reasons I first decided upon Takimikan, was their beautiful open-air rotemburo, for though many of the other onsen ryokans have open-air baths available, a lot appeared to be only semi-open air, or made from Hinoki (which I also love, but I love rock rotemburo more! teehee). The only other ryokan which had a full outdoor open-air bath is the infamous Ginzanso (but it’s a more modern Hinoki outdoor onsen). 

Another factor for me personally, is that I prefer smaller sized ryokans whenever I can, Ginzanso though not massive, has 40 rooms available, whilst Takimikan across their two buildings has only 14 rooms. I just adore a more intimate experience. Plus, when there are less rooms, higher chances of being able to enjoy the public baths all to one’s self! Every time I went to go have a soak, I was the only person there!

Most people will drive to Ginzan onsen, as it obviously allows you to be in full control of your own schedule. However generally if it’s just hubby and I, and we’re planning a relaxing time, we will take public transport so hubby doesn’t have to deal with the headache and stress of driving, worrying about parking, getting annoyed by too slow drivers, the navi not being accurate etc etc.

To get to Takimikan & Ginzan Onsen in winter is totally doable but does require some preplanning to coordinate train time, especially as we were coming down from Akita. Luckily Takimikan will happily pick you up from Oishida station as long as you ask in advance, so you don’t have to take a local bus or taxi. From Oishida station, to Ginzan Onsen is about 30mins.

What’s really lovely about Takimikan, is how accessible it is to Ginzan Onsen town (roughly an 8-10 minute walk down the hill (where you will pass their Annex building) yet also how removed it is from everything that you really do feel like you’re in a secluded area of winter wonderland.

MY PERSONAL THOUGHTS

FOOD

Very delicious, hearty local fare and because they specialise in Soba, we also had soba given to us as part of our dinner which is slightly unusual as it’s not something you normally get in a kaiseki meal. However it is their specialty so very glad to have tried it. Portion wise, very nice - think they were a bit shocked we ate so much our first night, the second night was soooo much more and then we couldn’t finish. Our meals were held in a private dining room which was lovely. 

It would have been nice if it’d been possible for them to serve us some of their soba for lunch or even some simple onigiri, since due to the current circumstances - the only restaurant that serves lunch in the town was closed. However most people only stay one night and then find lunch on the way back, we tend to be an exception because we stay multiple nights, regardless we found some yummy snacks in the town to tide us over till dinner. 

*disclaimer: I have a large appetite and my husband even more so, so what we find an ‘ok/decent’ amount of food, is normally too much for the majority.

ONSEN

An outdoor rotemburo on a hilltop with scenic views of a snowy winter wonderland, and snow flurries flying into your face… divine! the only way it would have been absolutely even more magical, is if our rooms had a private outdoor onsen with them! However since it’s such a small ryokan, I pretty much enjoyed the public outdoor bath to myself the whole time.

ROOM AMBIANCE

Generally I will always choose a traditional Japanese style room, because there’s something just so fun about sleeping on futons under those fluffy marshmallow blankets. Takimikan rooms are a lovely mix of traditional & western, with their twin beds on tatami floors with a lovely viewing space and touches of traditional decor. I believe all the rooms have twin beds, so we just pushed ours together to make a giant King bed! The wide windows are just perfect to sit by them, sip some green tea, read a book or just appreciate the views.

VENUE AMBIANCE

Takimikan Ryokan is built in the Taisho Roman style (Taisho Romantics style - a period of time in Japan equivalent to the roaring 20s, where a lot of architecture was a blend of Japanese & European styles) and is a lovely mix of rustic charm with simplicity. I adored the intimate style of this ryokan as it’s so warm and welcoming. Modern minimalist it is not.

SURROUNDING AREA

This was a perfect location for me to enjoy Ginzan Onsen. A quick walk down the hill (under 10 minutes) to the small onsen town where on the way you get to enjoy glorious views of the Shirogane Waterfalls, which probably many people don’t bother to see as they focus on the town itself and you can come and go easily to see the town without crowds. Yet situated in such an area, you are surrounded by nature and feel a timeless, restful peace instead of views of other buildings, and people walking in the streets. Utterly zen.

TAKIMIKAN FACTS (at time of stay)

• COST: starting from ~18000JPY+ per person per night

• MEALS INCLUDED: Breakfast & Dinner

• CHECK IN/CHECK OUT TIME: 1500 / 1100

• PAYMENT: cash & credit card accepted

• ROOMS: 14 rooms

• ENGLISH SPEAKING STAFF: A couple of individuals can, and they can email in English

• WEBSITE: TAKIMIKAN

• IG: @takimikan.official