Ginzan Onsen
In Yamagata Prefecture, deep in the mountains of Obanazawa district, lies Ginzan Onsen (silver mine hot spring) Town; quite possibly the most picturesque onsen town in Japan. A small town with two “streets” with connecting little bridges between, so essentially one street; it has become famous for its charming winter appearance when it’s traditional buildings become covered in snow.
EXPLORING GINZAN ONSEN
The street is lined with onsen ryokans on either side (1-2 cafe restaurants, a few souvenir shops) and all the properties often get booked out a year in advance (especially during the winter and autumn season) as they all only hold a small number of rooms.
Though remote, due to its popularity, the town is quite easily accessible, even in winter for day trips. From Tokyo it’s a rather long day trip - with Shinkansen travel and then a local bus so many people drive instead, or make their base Yamagata City for a night or two.
If you have the time, I would plan your trip to be more relaxing, at least stay one night to just leisurely enjoy Ginzan Onsen, especially if you want to see the night views. Also because in the town itself there’s not so much to do, except walk up and down the street and walk to Shirogane Waterfalls at the back of the town.
SHIROGANE TAKI
Meander down all the way to the other end of Ginzan Onsen Town, and you will discover Shirogane Waterfalls, which is absolutely stunning covered in snow in winter.
DELICIOUS TOFU SNACKS
There wasn’t much open during the day foodwise, perhaps due to the pandemic, so we couldn’t find an actual lunch place (most people go home after having breakfast at their ryokan - as they only stay one night) however we discovered this sweet little tofu shop, where it’s only takeaway and you can get two styles of tofu; one aburi (fried), the other not as a delicious hot snack to help fill you up. Didn’t get the name of the little shop (it’s literally a door) - but its opposite the ‘resting room’ (that has a coffee vending machine) near the entrance of the town.
*edit: I found the name Nogawa Tofuya!
CURRY PAN!
We also discovered some fresh hot curry pan in the omiyage store at the front of the town! was a great toasty warm snack.
GINZAN AT NIGHT
Ginzan onsen is especially breathtaking in wintertime, both during the day and night when snowfall creates a magical, mystical wonderland, as the traditional gas lamps light and sparkle amidst the soft flurries of snow and the shadowy, snow capped outlines of giant pines can be seen at the back of the town.
Many people will stay at least one night (which is why it also gets booked out so quickly) so they can relax in their ryokan, then pop in and out to see the pretty town at their leisure.
There are 12 onsen ryokans available to stay at in Ginzan Onsen and you can find a list of them here. In my research I decided to stay at Takimikan, at the top of Ginzan Onsen Town with views of Shirogane Waterfalls and it was utterly delightful to relax there for a couple of nights. You can read more about my stay here, and why I decided to choose this property.
