Kanazawa City
Recent travels have had me exploring the city of Kanazawa in Ishikawa prefecture. Often referred to as “The Little Kyoto”, this charming city often flies under the radar for Japan adventures and it should really be on one’s list. An easy shinkansen trip from Tokyo via the Hokuriku shinkansen; its perfect for a weekend away (or longer) and a wonderful alternative for those looking to explore a region rich with tradition, history, art, food and stunning landscapes.
Kanazawa is one end of “The Mitsuboshi Kaidou” (the Three Star Road) which stretches through Gokayama and the Nanto Region in Toyama, Shirakawa-go in Takayama to Matsumoto City in Nagano prefecture; this famous yet lesser travelled sightseeing route is renowned for it’s vast amount of Japanese National Treasures and World Heritage Sites.
In ancient times, the region was known as the Kaga domain (which is why many of the traditional elements have the term Kaga as part of it). Ruled by the influential and wealthy Maeda Clan (who’s descendants still live in the city today), they were second only to the Tokugawa clan in power and military might. The Maeda clan made sure they were indispensable to the new ruling Tokugawa shogunate by concentrating and funneling their considerable wealth into becoming the leading cultural and artisan heart of Japan.
TEA TIME, MUSIC, GAMES
WITH KANAZAWA’S GEISHA
By focusing their efforts towards the pursuit, mastery and innovation of the cultural traditional kogei (arts and crafts) such as Kaga-Yuzen kimono, gold leaf and silk production, Kutani porcelain and the ways of the Geisha, rather than military endeavours, the Maeda clan allayed the fears of the ruling Shogunate of a rebellion. In doing so, they cemented the protection and continual growth of the city.
KENROKU-EN GARDEN
It was during the Edo Period (1603 - 1868) that the Maeda family constructed Kenroku-en “Garden of the Six Sublimities”; one of “The Three Most Beautiful Landscape Gardens” in all of Japan.
The other two being Mito’s Kairaku-en and Okayama’s Koraku-en.
Formerly the outer gardens of Kanazawa Castle, every generation of the Maeda clan has been responsible for expanding the garden’s grounds, it’s maintenance and preservation till it’s current formation.
GENERATIONS OF FAMILY ARTISANS
Kanazawa today, acts as the gatekeeper to several of Japan’s most precious traditional kogei of which many are nationally recognised treasures; supporting and encouraging generations upon generations of family shokunin (master artisans) to continue their family trade; whilst also looking to establishing Kanazawa’s future as an international epicentre of modern contemporary art in Japan.
On one side of the river, lies Kanazawa’s famed historic districts of Higashi Chaya; the teahouse districts where one may spend an evening drinking tea and enjoying a musical performance with Geisha (or if one is truly lucky having a private intimate kaiseki dinner with them in the centre of Kanazawa) and Nagamachi, the wonderfully preserved samurai district where sweet little boutiques to peruse are hidden beyond swaying noren curtains filled with artisan crafts such as Kutani porcelain.
Meander down these cobblestone streets and you will feel like you’ve stepped back in time, especially as you stroll past others taking the opportunity to wear yukata or kimono for the day and enjoyed the region’s famed gold-leaf soft cream.
Whilst downtown, one can explore the myriad of modern contemporary art available from the various KAMU pop up museums and outdoor art installations around the city to the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art to the D.T Suzuki Museum dedicated to the life’s work and writings of the world famous Buddhist philosopher.
It feels like everywhere in Japan has delicious food (and honestly it’s very hard to find a bad Japanese meal in all my time living here) and Kanazawa’s cuisine is truly wonderfully divine! Kanazawa City is actually one of the country’s best seafood sellers, with Omicho morning market touted as perhaps the best fresh seafood market in all of Japan. People often say that if you wish to experience an authentic Japanese seafood market and auction, visit Omicho.
The region has been blessed in it’s location by the Japan Sea where the warm Tsushima current and the cold Liman current intersect, creating an optimum environment where both cold and warm-water fish/shellfish varieties coexist.
Ishikawa Prefecture is also known throughout Japan as having the highest rainfall which causes rain and melting snow to be carried from Hakusan (one of the three holy mountains in the country) into Sea of Japan helping to nurture a teeming healthy marine food chain.
AN INTIMATE GEISHA KAISEKI DINNER
A once in a lifetime experience, a luxurious kaiseki dinner with two of Kanazawa’s Geisha, having drinks together, chatting, watching a performance and playing drinking games.
One can find pretty much any cuisine to suit one’s tastebuds, from the freshest local sushi to tiny sushi omakase bars, traditional kaiseki to avant grade modern fine dining, small restaurant entrepreneurs to local cooking classes and of course a very robust drinking and nightlife scene!
The next time you’re planning that Japan holiday, definitely put aside a few days (or several) to explore this beautiful area and other surrounding cities! There are many accommodation options available but if you want to treat yourself, book a night at Korinkyo!
ACCESS
BY TRAIN
JR HOKURIKU SHINKANSEN | 2.5 - 3 hours | approx 14,000JPY | JAPAN RAIL PASS & HOKURIKU ARCH PASS available
BY BUS
HIGHWAY BUS | 7 - 8 hours | approx 6000-8000JPY | dependent on the bus & date of travel
Discount bus operators such as Willer offer one way fares from around 4500 yen.
Japan Bus Online can reduce the cost for the bus trip to around 3000 yen.
Online reservations can be made through Willer and Japan Bus Online.
BY AIR
JAL and ANA operate several flights per day between Tokyo's Haneda Airport and Komatsu Airport. Flight time is one hour.
The regular one way fare from Tokyo to Kanazawa is about 25,000 yen.
Discount tickets for around 10,000 to 13,500 yen are usually available.
Kanazawa's airport is located in the city of Komatsu, a 40 minute bus ride (1150 yen) from central Kanazawa.
