Yamashiro Onsen: Part 1
The past few years have seen me explore Ishikawa’s capital city of Kanazawa on several occasions, truly one of my favourite destinations in Japan rich with culture, historical and modern art, traditional kogei, stunning gardens and some of the most delicious food one can discover in the country. However if one has a little more time on their travels, extend the adventure to see more of Ishikawa by visiting one of their famed relaxing onsen towns of Yamashiro, Yamanaka and Awazu Onsen. I decided to take some time to discover the charming Yamashiro Onsen Town.
A quick train change at Kanazawa Station to the Express Trains Shirasagi or Thunderbird will see you arrive at Kaga Onsen Station in 30mins (~50mins on the local Hokuriku Line) where one can take the local bus to the Yamashiro (or your onsen ryokan may provide a shuttle service).
*FROM MARCH 16th 2024: the Hokuriku Shinkansen route will open it’s new extended route which will see journey times to Kaga Onsen Station roughly only take ~2.5 hrs from the ancient capital of Kyoto, popular bustling Osaka, the modern metropolis of Tokyo.
With a history dating back roughly 1300 years ago, Yamashiro Onsen town was established in 725 A.D when the wandering high priest Gyoki, stumbled upon a giant crow bathing it’s injured wing in the hot spring’s healing waters on his pilgrimage to sacred Mt Haku-san. During the Edo period, Japanese towns were once built around castles, shrines and temples but also hot spring onsen bathhouses. Legend states that the crow Gyoki discovered was the mythological three-legged giant crow Yatagarasu and it’s subsequent location, is where the town of Yamashiro Onsen grew around. The hot spring pool is affectionally known as “Karasu no Yu” (Crow’s Hot Spring) to the locals. One will find throughout the town, the Yatagarasu mascot in toys, posters, souvenir packaging and other paraphenalia.
THE TOWN’S ASHI YU
With every onsen town/area, there is no doubt you will find a local onsen foot bath which one can enjoy freely. Yamashiro Onsen is no exception, diagonally opposite from Kosoyu lie's the town’s foot bath adorned with a statue honouring Yatagarasu & it’s original onsen source.
RELAXING IN YAMASHIRO’S ICONIC BATHHOUSE: KOSOYU
The central beckoning landmark of Yamashiro, is the picturesque, iconic Kosoyu bathhouse. Rebuilt in 2010, Kosoyu (literally translates to “Old Soyu”) is an exact restoration of the original Meiji Era bathhouse that once stood there. Wooden interiors greet you as you glide past the noren curtain to enter the onsen resplendent with warm, welcoming hinoki walls intermingled with the famed, vibrant Kanazawa reds and blues in beautiful stained glass window squares. Kutani porcelain tiles in Kanazawa blue decorate the floor with favourite local motifs.
In the Hokuriku region, a public onsen was more commonly known as a “soyu” and the surrounding town area was called the “yunogawa”
A RELAXING TIME IN KOSOYU
After a soak in the luxurious, silky onsen waters of Kosoyu, with its warm, welcoming ambiance and the colorful glass windows reflected upon the water
After a soak, head upstairs to relax in the tatami lounging area also beautifully decorated with the colored glass windows.
In this calming area, you can sip water, quietly chat and appreciate the views of the town from the many windows, including the new Soyu & it’s popular little cafe
KOSOYU DETAILS
OPEN: JAN-NOV: 6am-10pm; DEC-FEB: 7am–9pm
CLOSED: 4th WED of each month from 6:00 to 12:00 (regular opening hours commence after 12)
PRICES: Adults: 500JPY | Children (6-12yrs): 200JPY Children (3-6yrs): 100JPY | Under 3yrs: FREE
ONSEN TYPE: Sodium, calcium sulfate, chloride (hypotonic, slightly alkaline, high-temperature spring)
*Please note that there are no showers or taps, and soap / shampoo are not permitted to be used.
*Please rinse your body with hot water before entering the bath.
SOYU ONSEN BATHHOUSE
Across from Kosoyu, is the newer Soyu onsen bathhouse; equally popular with the locals, this bathhouse celebrates the fusion of the traditional past & Yamashiro’s journery into the present and future.
Bright, light filled with bigger baths, Soyu is open from 6am - 10pm, with the same closing times as Kosoyu
PRICES: Adults 490JPY | Children (6-12yrs): 130JPY, Children (3-6yrs.): 50JPY, Under 3yrs old: FREE
KOSOYU ILLUMINATION AT NIGHT
Though one can visit Yamashiro Onsen for a day trip, it’s definitely best to stay a night or two in this charming town so one can leisurely explore and relax away. Staying overnight allows one to view the town alit at night, especially breathtaking is Kosoyu, with its stained colored glass windows glowing in the darkness
ACCESS
BY SHINKANSEN TRAIN
JR HOKURIKU SHINKANSEN | 2.5 - 3 hours | approx 14,000JPY ONE WAY
JAPAN RAIL PASS & HOKURIKU ARCH PASS available to international tourists
BY BUS TO KANAZAWA STATION - THEN TRAIN TO KAGA ONSEN
HIGHWAY BUS | 7 - 8 hours | approx 6000-8000JPY | dependent on the bus & date of travel
Discount bus operators such as Willer offer one way fares from around 4500 yen.
Japan Bus Online can reduce the cost for the bus trip to around 3000 yen.
Online reservations can be made through Willer and Japan Bus Online.
BY AIR
JAL and ANA operate several flights per day between Tokyo's Haneda Airport and Komatsu Airport. Flight time is one hour.
The regular one way fare from Tokyo to Kanazawa is about 25,000 yen.
Discount tickets for around 10,000 to 13,500 yen are usually available.
Kanazawa's airport is located in the city of Komatsu, a 40 minute bus ride (1150 yen) from central Kanazawa.
OFFICIAL WEBSITE: YAMASHIRO ONSEN TOWN | INSTAGRAM: @YAMASHIRO_SPA
