Yamashiro Onsen: Part 2
Onsen towns are always a wonderful way to discover a more intimate world of Japan, for the towns that have been built around hotsprings, one can find charming rich history, quieter streets, a slower pace of life each with their own unique identity, delightful local businesses and of course the healing onsen waters. Not all onsen hot springs have had small towns build up around them, so if you have a chance on your travels throughout Japan, make sure to give 2 -3 nights or more to truly immerse oneself and simply enjoy one of the Japanese peoples’ favourite pastime.
*REMEMBER FROM MARCH 16th 2024: the Hokuriku Shinkansen route will open it’s new extended route which will see journey times to Kaga Onsen Station roughly only take ~2.5 hrs from the ancient capital of Kyoto, popular bustling Osaka, the modern metropolis of Tokyo.
Meandering through the endearing and picturesque Yamashiro, there are enough pretty sights, activities and delicious fooding to enjoy a slow weekend getaway. Walk through the town, and one will come across stone lanterns lining the cobblestone streets leading up to Yakuoin Onsenji & Hattori Shrine, each featuring a beautiful piece of Kutani porcelain in varying designs and motifs (which illuminate at night). In the other directions walking down from Kosoyu, the temple & the shrine, on one of the quieter streets, you will stumble across a road thats lined with several of the most adorable stone childlike statues. Spend some time browsing the pretty shops & cafes housed in the traditional kominka buildings painted in famed Kanazawa red. Read on below to discover what else I got up to, during my time in Yamashiro.
YAKUOIN ONSENJI TEMPLE & HATTORI SHRINE
YAKUOIN ONSENJI
A short walk from Kosoyu up the paved street lined with stone lanterns featuring Kutani porcelain art, is the picturesque Yakuoin Onsenji, the leading temple of the Hakusan Five Temples. Legend states that this ancient temple was founded by the high priest Gyoki on his pilgrimage to Sacred Mt Hakusan where he discovered the sacred three legged crow Yatagarasu (a mythical creature from Japanese folklore) healing it’s injured wing in the onsen springs.
Whilst exploring through the moss covered grounds of the temple, pay attention where you step because you will discover a path where each step is engraved with a letter from Japan’s hiragana alphabet in pretty vibrant coloured Kutani-yaki. The temple is where the chief priest Myokaku Shonin created today’s modern alphabet of hiragana and katakana (gojūon 五十音) during the Heian period.
HATTORI SHRINE
Next door to Yakuoin Onsenji is Hattori Shrine, a quiet respite with its beckonning large tori gate leading up the stairs to the main shrine. Dedicated to the God of (traditional) Weaving, today the popular modern interpretation refers to the social interaction, the weaving, networking, creating stronger and better personal or professional connections.
WEARING TRADITIONAL KIMONO AROUND THE TOWN
TANIGUCHI KIMONO SHOP
With its proximity to Kanazawa, renown for their amazingly beautiful Kaga Yuzen kimono, one can also enjoy wearing exquisite antique and vintage kimono traditionally. making one feel like one has travelled through time to a bygone era of Japan.
Down the main street, find Taniguchi Kimono shop which is lovingly run by the elegant Atsuko-san. Once you step through the shop’s doors, leisurely browse through their selection of lovely kimonos and pretty kimono and hair accessories to match. Once you have decided, the ladies will sweep your hair up into a refined style to match your kimono, and then you will move into the inner dressing room as the ladies work their magic to dress you in all the many layers in a matter of moments.
OPEN: 10AM - 5PM
CLOSED: TUESDAYS
EXPLORE YAMASHIRO WEARING KIMONO
After your transformation is complete, take some photos with their impressive Wagasa umbrellas, decorated painstakingly with detailed touches of lacquer and gold leaf. Honestly perhaps some of the most beautiful (and largest) Wagasa I’ve seen.
Then one can spend the time, enjoying walking through town, visiting shops and making sure to capture some photographic moments in front of Kosoyu.
KIMONO EXPERIENCE COST: 5500JPY+ onwards
SAKE TASTING & OMIYAGE SHOPPING
CAFE HADUTIWO & NINURIYA
As always on my explorations I love to try the local regional sake, and in the small shopping area housed within the traditional red kominka, one can taste the delicious nihonshu of the Kaga, Hokuriku region in Cafe Hadutiwo (はづちを楽堂). You can also enjoy popular desserts such as kakigori, odango, pudding and curry if you’re feeling more peckish.
Ninuriya opposite, houses beautiful souvenirs like Kaga’s kutani-yaki porcelain, Japanese style hair ornaments, and other sweet bits and bobs one can purchase to remember their time at Yamashiro.
BOTH OPEN: 9.30 - 5PM
BOTH CLOSED: WEDNESDAYS
FEASTING ON A DELICIOUS LOCAL SUSHI OMAKASE
KAME SUSHI
No matter where I travel in Japan, I’m always all about the food, and if I’m in a region that is renown for its delicious seafood, I will undoubtedly try my utmost to find a sushi restaurant for either some simple ala carte sushi or an omakase experience.
Kame Sushi is located right near Cafe Hadutiwo & Ninuriya in a beautifully renovated and restored Japanese kominka, where one can enjoy some of the freshest produce from Hashidate Port, Kanazawa Port, Noto & Himi
RESERVATIONS REQUIRED
DINNER: starts from 8000JPY (you can also give him your budget if you want to cap spending at say 10000JPY, 15000JPY etc)
LUNCH: starts from 4000JPY
ACCESS
BY SHINKANSEN TRAIN
JR HOKURIKU SHINKANSEN | 2.5 - 3 hours | approx 14,000JPY ONE WAY
JAPAN RAIL PASS & HOKURIKU ARCH PASS available to international tourists
BY BUS TO KANAZAWA STATION - THEN TRAIN TO KAGA ONSEN
HIGHWAY BUS | 7 - 8 hours | approx 6000-8000JPY | dependent on the bus & date of travel
Discount bus operators such as Willer offer one way fares from around 4500 yen.
Japan Bus Online can reduce the cost for the bus trip to around 3000 yen.
Online reservations can be made through Willer and Japan Bus Online.
BY AIR
JAL and ANA operate several flights per day between Tokyo's Haneda Airport and Komatsu Airport. Flight time is one hour.
The regular one way fare from Tokyo to Kanazawa is about 25,000 yen.
Discount tickets for around 10,000 to 13,500 yen are usually available.
Kanazawa's airport is located in the city of Komatsu, a 40 minute bus ride (1150 yen) from central Kanazawa.
OFFICIAL WEBSITE: YAMASHIRO ONSEN TOWN | INSTAGRAM: @YAMASHIRO_SPA
