Sacred Mt Mitoku
Legend of the Lotus Petals
1300 years ago legend states that the founder of Shugendō; En no Gyōja threw three lotus petals into the air that “should fly down to places related gods and Buddhas” which landed at Yoshino in Nara Prefecture, Ishizuchiyama in Ehime Prefecture and Mt Mitoku in Tottori Prefecture. Ever since, Mt Mitoku has become a sacred mountain stronghold deeply tied to the faith of Shugendo (the belief of mountain worship with ties to Buddhism and ancient Taoism) of which many will pilgrimage to. Today it is still a place of training for those who follow the mountain faith.
Hike to Japan’s Most “Dangerous” National Treasure
No visit to Misasa Onsen is complete without a hike to Mt Mitoku and it’s sacred pilgrimage to its mountain temple halls culminating in reaching the beloved Nageiredō Hall. Built inside a cave on the mountain cliff, it is believed that using the power of Buddhism, En no Gyōja threw the temple into the mountain cave hence its name Nageiredō (thrown in temple).
Though the hiking path is not long - it will take on average 1 - 2.5+ hrs to ascend and descend depending on how long you stay at each temple hall. It has been referred to by the priests of Sanbutsuji Temple as “Japan’s most dangerous National Treasure” due to the slightly tricky hiking route. However that being said, I found no difficulty with it (and I’m not someone who exercises regularly). Essentially the “hike” to Nageireido is more of a “climb” and it is in this slightly perilous, inherent danger of one’s ascent that is a vital aspect of a pilgrimage to Mt Mitoku as the belief is that embarking on such a difficult journey will heighten and improve your senses, and to do such training is known as the “Way of the Ascetics." It is the “struggle” that one endures, calm strength and focus achieved during the pilgrimage that is more important then reaching a summit top, embracing the practice of the 6 beliefs of Rokkon Shōjō (explanation at the end of blog post!).
The Beginning of the Pilgrimage
If you’re to begin the pilgrimage in its utmost pure form, the Shugendō belief dictates that one should bathe in Misasa’s onsen waters, to cleanse and intensify the purification of one’s spirit before attempting the ascension up Mt Mitoku and then once the descent is completed, go bathe once more in the healing onsen water; ideally for three mornings as befitting Misasa’s namesake.
From there, the pilgrimage begins at Sanbutsji Temple, of which all the mountain temple halls belong too where behind the temple you must register and pay the entrance fee to continue. The head monk will inspect your shoes to make sure they’re suitable (no sandals, shoe with metal cleats etc); if you’re footwear is deemed unsuitable, you can purchase traditional waraji sandals to complete the journey. These are the same types of sandals, the monks wear daily to ascend the mountain. In fact the head monk is known to do the climb twice a day in all his traditional wear including the sandals. Before you begin your climb, a ceremonial sash will be given to you to be worn as you hike.
The Start of the Pilgrimage
A photo with the head monk, who’s an absolute a delight and loves to have a chat! along with my climbing partner, Anthony who lives in Misasa and a local pro at climbing Mt Mitoku and everything Misasa Onsen related.
Wearing the ceremonial sash that will be with us throughout the entire climb.
Your first steps beyond the temple have you leave the mortal world into the spiritual world by walking through the red gates nestled between two ancient sacred pine trees onto the Shikuiribashi bridge that separates the manmade world and the natural world of Mt Mitoku. Though there are a couple of winding earthen mountain paths, the difficulty of the pilgrimage is due to the fact no set, carved, convenient path exists; instead one must navigate steeply upwards by scaling natural ladders created by the intertwining of roots of giant pine trees (Kazura-zaka) to reach each “summit’ and using one’s own strength to pull the body upwards over giant boulders whilst holding onto rusty chain links (Kusari-zaka).
The Beauty of Monjudō and Jizōdō
After completing the Kazura-zaka, and climbing the Kusari-zaka will have pilgrims arrive to the stunningly beautiful wooden temple hall Monjudō built on stilts upong the mountain face in the butai-zukuri-style; which is said to bestow visitors wit increased levels of wisdom.
Travellers must remove their shoes and walk around the temple veranda from the left to the right where they will be greeted with breathtaking views of the lush valley and the surrounding Chugoku mountains.
On clear days, one can see the tallest of all Chugoku’s peaks, Mt Daisen and even all the way to the Oki Islands in neighbouring Shimane Prefecture. Following on is the second temple hall Jizōdō built in a similar style which is said to grant longevity and healthy children.
*first photo above - Monjudō, photo to the right: Jizōdō
Reaching Nageiredō via the Shōrōdō & the Umanose/Ushinose Rocks
Subsequently after admiring the peacefulness and tranquility of Monjudō & Jizōdō, one will arrive at the impressive Shōrōdō which houses a two-tonne bell that pilgrims must ring on their way to the summit. The bell was brought up the mountain as an offering to the gods, but any record of how it was achieved has long since been lost, similarly with any knowledge of how Nageiredō was constructed.
Ringing the Bell of Shōrōdō
This impressive bell with its green, rustic patina roughly sits halfway through the pilgrimage and is an important stopping point for any visitor.
Clambering up through the wooden structure, one braces themselves by the wooden beams and rings out the bell letting its pleasant sound chime through the air. Ensure to remember to clap and pray.
The Umanose/Ushinose Rocks
The next hurdle for travellers before reaching Nageiredō and its several smaller temples is the unusual deeply slanted rock face with a thin edge known as the Umanose (horse back)/ Ushinose (cowback) rocks due to their unique form. Though I found it fine, travellers should exercise caution, as the deep slant falls down steeply.
After passing the Umanose/Ushinose, one will enter a tunnel in the rock called ‘the womb’ which brings a close to the purification ritual as it symbolises the completion of your spiritual cleansing, essentially your “rebirth”. Several smaller temples will be passed through the womb, and as you exit onto a sloping plateau of rocks, your gaze will fall upon Nageiredō resting upon the side of a sheer cliff face as though it magically appeared as one with the rock. Due to its unique location and the natural volcanic rock of the cliff that extends out over the building forming a protective cover for centuries, the temple hall has been well preserved from the harsh elements of nature like the wind, rain and snow. It’s roof in particular which was constructed in the typical Shintō shrine roof style of nagare-zukuri is still remarkably preserved.
Arriving at Nageiredō
Like any hike, climb or pilgrimage, there’s something immensely satisfying about reaching the peak or one’s end destination.
Though Nageiredō is not ornate or gilded in gold, its beauty lies in its simplicity and astounding craftsmanship that somehow in the past, materials were brought up through this perilous ascent to build this place of serenity and peace.
When I visited, they weren’t allowing visitors to actually enter Nageiredō grounds, though it had once been possible. For the time being, only the monk and his family can reach right the heart of this beautiful site.
Rules to Ascend Mt Mitoku & Costs
Solo travellers are not allowed, you must climb the mountain with a friend and/or guide
Exercise caution, as some parts of the trail are steep and dangerous.
Wear appropriate clothing and footwear. Skirt and slacks should not be worn. Outdoor shoes are advised, like hiking boots or anything with an adequate grip. Meat cleats and studs are not permitted. The monks will check your footwear to see if it’s appropriate - if not you can purchase the traditional Waraji sandals worn by the monks Please wear appropriate clothing.
No food allowed, but water is now permissible
Wear a backpack or something similar so your arms and hands are completely free.
Climbing is prohibited in the rain or snow, generally the route closes from December to March.
Please take care with of yourself, your valuables and belongings. No responsibility is accepted for any loss of belongings on the trails or injuries while climbing.
COSTS: Adults: 400JPY | Primary & Middle School Students: 200JPY HOURS: 9AM - 5PM
NAGEIREDO ADDITIONAL COSTS: to enter Nageiredo as well; ADULTS: 200JPY | Primary & Middle School Students: 100JPY
HOURS: 8AM - 3PM (note: when I visited, they had stopped entry to Nageiredo for maintenance)
ROKKON SHŌJŌ
Purification of the Six Roots of Perception
Ascending the sacred Mt Mitoku is essential in the practice of Rokkon Shojo to achieve purification for the six roots of perception in Buddhism: eyes, ears, nose, tongue, body and mind
Ears: Soothe your heart, as the sound of Mt Mitoku’s bell rings and sutras are read.
Eyes: View through your eyes countless historic buildings built as one with nature, and appreciate the majesty of the National Treasure Nageiredō
Tongue: Taste the healthy seasonal flavours of traditional shōjin cuisine to help heal and give strength.
Body: Feel the satisfaction in your body as you ascend and descend from Mt Mitoku.
Nose: Appease your sense of smell by the scent of blooming rhododendrons and incense
Mind: Embrace the spirituality and peacefulness as you visit each temple hall and the final Nageiredō
