3 Mornings at Misasa Onsen
The Legend of Misasa Onsen
In Tottori Prefecture, lies an onsen town rich with history, culture, stunning nature and a unique onsen hot spring, in fact one of the rarest in the world. Known as the onsen town of “three mornings” (it’s direct translation); Misasa has a history of over 850years. Legend states that during the Heian period, the servant of Minamoto no Yoshitomo; the samurai Samanosuke Okubo came across an elderly white wolf under a camphor tree. As he was embarking upon a pilgrimage, Samanosuke believed it would be an act of disrespect to take the life of the wolf and that it may possibly be an incarnation of a god, so he let it live.
As he slept, the great Buddha Myokan Daibosatu came to him in his dream. In appreciation for his act of kindness and mercy, the Bodhisattva told Samanosuke that the camphor tree held the source of a hot spring “There is a spring under that tree, the waters of which will heal people's illnesses.” Afterwards, it is said Samanosuke Okubo-san conveyed the knowledge of the onsen spring to the villagers where many of their illnesses were cured after bathing in the water.
Due to it’s rich history and in order to preserve and protect the town; Misasa Onsen along with it’s sacred mountain Mt Mitoku were listed as one of Japan’s first Japan Heritage Sites in 2015.
TIP: try to time your visit for Spring to catch the cherry blossoms all in bloom; historically blooming in the last week of March, first week of April. If you’re lucky enough to catch it, its truly a beautiful spectacle with the blooms framing the town and still having a peaceful trip.
Kabuyu Public Bath
The Source of Misasa Onsen
Today the ancient camphor tree from legend still exists of which from it’s roots, flows the town’s original hot spring source. Around it, a public onsen bath facility has been constructed called Kabuyu. The onsen drinking spring can be found flowing abundantly outside the Kabuyu public onsen, where you will find locals and visitors lining up with their water bottles/PET bottles to fill, for it is said that drinking the onsen water will cleanse the inside of the body & help heal medical ailments.
For those wishing to visit Kabuyu for soak, there’s only one indoor onsen for guests to enjoy (one for male, one for female). It is a simple onsen, with no showers (tip the onsen water over one’s body before entering the bath) or shampoo and be forewarned, it is a very hot onsen 44-45 degrees celsius.
One can also enjoy a free onsen footbath by the public onsen, which is undercover and perfect if you suddenly get caught out in a torrential downpour as I did during my stay in Misasa Onsen.
Cost of Entry To Kabuyu: 400JPY (at time of writing)
Radon Enriched Onsen Hot Springs
“Good to bathe in, Good to drink, Good to Inhale” is the philosophy celebrating Misasa’s healing onsen waters. Their hot spring is one of the most radioactive hot spring in the world. The waters hold a high concentration of radon (obviously not levels harmful to the human body) which stimulate what is known as the “hormesis effect” which promotes metabolism, enhances immunity, prevents aging and other lifestyle-related diseases. Created by the decomposition of radium, radon is very weak radiation which can stimulate cells throughout the body and activate it’s function.
3 Mornings at Misasa Onsen
The existence of onsen in Japan has always been attributed to a mountain faith belief in the power of the gods, and that all of Japan’s mountains are actually home to gods/goddesses (though most do say it’s a goddess, because only a goddess can give life to others whether it be creatures or nature). It is said to have the most beneficial effect of the onsen waters, one should endeavour to stay 3 mornings in Misasa (reflective of the namesake), soaking away every morning in what is known as the “Rokkan Chiyu” (Healing of the Six Senses) of both physical health and spiritual whilst combining one’s trip with the sacred pilgrimage to Mt Mitoku to experience “Rokkon Shojo” (Purification of the Six Roots of Perception).
ROKKAN CHIYU
Healing of the Six Senses
The practice of Rokkan Chiyu is said to rejuvenate the six senses of sight, hearing, smell, taste, touch, and spirit, by either soaking in the waters, drinking it or walking through the rising onsen steam
Hearing: The soothing sound of the mountain stream and geta throughout the town.
Sight: Walking amidst the nostalgia of the Showa Era townscape & registered tangible cultural properties.
Taste: Dining upon the delicious of local fresh foods and produce, like vegetables, tochimochi & drinking aged sake.
Touch: Feeling the onsen water (onsen therapy) around you & experiencing the charms of the town.
Smell: Breathe in & smell the scent of the onsen water and surrounding nature as you relax away.
Spirit: Take the time to refresh your body and spirit as you bathe and feel at peace.
SIGHTSEEING, EXPLORING & FOOD
Hiking Sacred Mt Mitoku
Misasa Onsen Town lies at the base of Mt Mitoku. A sacred mountain (also a Japan Heritage Site), the two have been closely intertwined for most of their history. It is known throughout Japan for it’s difficult/hazardous (but not long) trek to reach the many temple halls built upon and within the mountainside. In fact it’s often been called Japan’s Most Dangerous National Treasure, but its definitely an experience to partake in if you want to experience the traditional ritual and purification of spirit and soul of this pilgrimage and enjoy a little bit of adventure. The stunning viewscapes you will see from the temple halls are truly worth it.
It is tradition, to bathe one’s body in the town’s onsen before and after one’s pilgrimage, and many choose to make sure that at least once they bathe in the well-loved Kawara-buro.
Read more about my trek here (it deserves its own post)
The Open-Air Bath Kawara-Buro & footbath Kawara no Yu
Beloved by the locals is a lovely mixed tattoo friendly onsen bath right on the Mitoku River by Misasa Bridge that is FREE. In all types of weather you can find the locals and visitors enjoying it’s waters. Read more about it here
Misasa Kouta
In 1929, the town of Misasa Onsen became more well known in Japan when the movie “Misasa Kouta” was filmed in the town. To celebrate the 80th anniversary of the movie, a bronze statue of an intertwined couple was erected at the entrance to the Kawara-buro onsen.
Kajika no Yu & Yakushi no Yu
Three onsen footbaths can be found throughout Misasa, with the easiest being found next to Kawara-buro beyond the changing wall, known as Kawara no Yu. Kajika no Yu is aptly located on the Kajika bridge (opposite the onsen ryokan Misasakan) where ceramic kajika frogs can be found and where the real Kajika frogs can be heard croaking their melody from May - September. If you visit in Spring, you may be able to time it when all the cherry blossoms are in bloom which creates a very pretty landscape.
Yakushi no Yu is where the God of the hot spring town “Oyakushi-san” is enshrined. At this onsen footbath which is prettily decorated with windmills, one can also enjoy drinking the onsen water as well as soaking one’s feet. Many people visit to pray to Oyakushi-san for good health.
The Bridges of Misasa
Three bridges connect the town, with the Kajika Bridge downstream, Misasa Bridge in the middle and Koitani Bridge upstream. Kajika bridge lies just opposite the onsen ryokan Misasakan where in spring, numerous cherry blossoms bloom surrounding the bridge and the riverbank. Misasa bridge, with traditional granite stone lanterns connects from the onsen ryokan Mansuirou into the main shopping area of the town. The beloved Kawara-buro lies just on the shopping street riverbank side of the town. Koitani Bridge “Love Valley Bridge” is known for it’s nighttime illuminations and the presence of a Ceramic Kajika Frog (the unofficial mascot of Misasa Onsen) where it’s said rubbing the frog’s head will bring luck in love; it is affectionately known as the “Kajika Frog of Matchmaking”. On either side of the ceramic frog are a metal sculpture of the Kajika (facing the statue) where people have hung matchmaking Kajika frog ema (the wooden prayer plaques found in temples & shrines) to wish for luck in love. One can find the Kajika ema at the town’s onsen ryokans, local shops & the tourist information office. They have already been blessed by the Kurayoshi branch of the Izumo Grand Shrine
Misasa Shrine
In the quiet side streets of the main area, lies Misasa Shrine, which is the guardian deity of Misasa Onsen. A sweet wooden shrine, bordered by sheltered greenery and a little walking path; nuumerous deities, including Onamuchi-no-Mikoto (also known as Okuninushi) and Susanoo-no-Mikoto, are enshrined here. The shrine and the ancient sacred tree “Muku no Ki” that lies on its ground have appeared in both the movies “Misasa Kouta” and “Koitani Bridge”. The shrine’s Chozuya (drinking spring) “Kami no Yu” is actually also drinking water, and just like a few places scattered around the town, there are fountains of drinkable onsen water.
Pokemon Manhole
Make sure to take a little detour to the carpark that roughly lies next to the Shrine, where if you take a little look around you will find one of the rare Pokemon Manholes which have been strewn around Japan to help showcase lesser known areas and regions. This particular manhole features Sandshrew, Alolan Sandshrew & Froakie (I had to google which ones they are, because I have no idea hahaha but its always fun to stumble upon them when I least expect it!) You can find their location here.
Where to Eat
MISASA YOGHURT: For those needing a little sweet treat after your explorings, take the time to stop by the newest addition to the town; Misasa Yoghurt. As the name suggests, this little cafe serves homemade yoghurt treats created using "Shirobara Milk" which is produced from the rich natural environment of Tottori and slowly fermented. Rice flour and beet sugar is also used in the creation, making their products a gluten-free treat for all. I particularly liked their yoghurt & butter cream sandwich cookies, of which I had several during my time.
AJISHO MISASAYA: One’s onsen ryokan will generally include both breakfast & dinner during your stay (if you’ve booked your room with meals); the question will be what will you eat for lunch? There are several lovely options to enjoy a local lunch in the town, however if you only have one lunch to enjoy - make the time to eat at Ajisho Misasaya.
WINE & BAR たんたん: Looking for a little after dinner nightcap, head to Wine & Bar たんたん in the heart of the town to enjoy as the name suggests some tipples of wine, as well as some local nihonshu (Japanese sake). If you’re still feeling peckish, you can also order a few little side snacky dishes here as well as pizza. Don’t be surprised if you meet a few of the locals just enjoying a little night out.
Nostalgic Showa Atmosphere
At night time, the town becomes a lit and one can slowly meandering the main street, stopping into a couple of bars, a few littler eateries or feel like a child again by stepping into this Showa retro game hall filled with vintage pinball machines and iconic old movie posters.
WHERE TO STAY IN MISASA ONSEN
Many visitors to Misasa, stay a minimum of 2 nights however to have a more ample, leisurely amount of time to explore the town’s charms, soak in various onsen and especially if you want to hike Mt Mitoku, make the time to stay for 3 nights just as the Misasa namesake suggests so one can embrace it’s historical healing of 3 mornings. 25 onsen ryokan are available to choose from, during my trip to Misasa I decided to try 3 different onsen ryokan; you can read about my time on these more detailed blog posts: MISASAKAN, MANSUIROU & RYOKAN OHASHI
